A relatively short journey took us from Hoi An to Hue. Here there was an option to take a motorbike tour of the area however my money was running low so I opted out and went for a walk instead. Checking the map supplied by the hotel and noting where all the big tourist places were I headed out, in the opposite direction. I very quickly found myself getting strange looks from people as they watched this crazy tourist, who must be lost, trying not to get run over. There were no side walks, anywhere. Just very busy roads full of motorbikes lined with shops. Sometimes there was room to walk between the shop front and the parked bikes and then sometimes there wasn't :-\ Still, I survived and it was worth it to watch the people going about their everyday lives. I eventually found a supermarket to stock up on snacks but even that was a mission since no one spoke english so I just had to hold out my money and trust he'd take the right amount, which I think he did. After walking back I ventured into the normal tourist areas, took a stroll along the river as the sunset, and got lost in the market place. It was pitch black and the covers prevented any streets lights from getting in, however the smell of the fish I had walked past to get in was enough to tell me when I was getting closer to the exit.
In the evening it was much the same as always; shower and then meet the group for dinner. However tonight was Halloween so a bit of party party was going to be involved. Obviously no one had brought anything for costumes when packing their travel essentials, but then when you're me travel essentials includes make up and red nail varnish. The perfect combination to pretend slit your throat and die :-) . I did look a little strange being the only one dressed up but then I entertained a lot of people so it was worth it :-) . It was also worth it to take mum out and get her a little... OK A LOT... drunk.
Since we didn't wake up until 12 we went straight out to get lunch. Another local place where no one could really speak english seemed perfect until we realised every dish was made of shrimp and there is only so much shrimo, fish sauce, and fish skin you can eat at once. That said, the food was great, and it helped to prepare us for the 14 hour train ride ahead.
NB: overnight train survival kit = books, playing cards, snacks, water and something to put between you and the slightly stained bed sheets.
The 14 hours passed quite quickly and was much nicer than the subsequent 5 hour coach ride to get to Halong Bay. Here we were alowed a few hours nap before a boat ride around the bay and to the caves. Here our tour guide insisted on pointing out the rock formations that resembled something else, like a dragon, and a turtle. However it was a bit of a stretch when he told us the story of the woman shaped rock coming down from heaven to bath in the pool until the man shaped shadow, who had been looking up at her, stole her wings and clothes and she could no longer return, not even on the horse shaped rock. The guide wasn't quite sure what to say when someone pointed out the man wouldn't exist without the artificial light conveniently directed at the rocks. In the evening we were supposed to be going to a karaoke bar, however, where we were expecting a pub/bar with a stage and people singing, we got private rooms that you pay for by the hour and the Vietnamese equivalent of a sing star machine. We didn't stay. Instead we had a relaxed night wandering through the market and drinking on the side of the road.
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